The 140th straight day of travel ticks over with my wife and I (still married) jetting across Germany into Munich. Strasbourg charmed us with its bilingual, Alsatian wines, Christmas markets, and history (post here). What will the land of lager bring our EU Austerity Drinking Tour?
We tumble into lovely Christmas markets that feed from one square to another like a snake with bulges. The town clock churns with wooden automata. But unlike Strasbourg or Luxemburg, everything is meat. This is Germany. We finally find a café with sad cheese sandwiches.
Fueled but still cold, we visit the Royal Treasury, which packs its walls with bedazzling finery from Germany’s earliest kings.
After a few hours of getting overwhelmed by toiletries, crucifixes, and odd cups, we enter the Residenz: Germany’s largest palace, where Bavaria’s Kings ruled, dined, and wallowed in their own opulence in 130 rooms.
The audio guide takes us to shell-bedecked Grotto: one of ten courtyards:
We traipse through further rooms of extravagance, from Baroque, to Mannerist, Neoclassical and beyond.
There are porcelain cabinets made out of porcelain…to hold porcelain. Bedrooms were built for visiting popes. A hundred dish gold place-setting. Everything is so atrociously ornate, busy, and obsessed with minutia. With winter’s sun setting we find the Cuviliés Theater, an utter gem of a space, where Mozart once held a few gigs. We have the fanciest-pantsiest hangover imaginable.
We head out to get groceries for dinner, drink, and oh yes, a cow:
This being the home to Oktoberfest, we grab three Munich beers. They are all Hell beers (literally “light-colored” nothing to do with damnation) but of different kinds (Lager, Tegernseer, and Weissbier.
Next Monday’s post purges our fabulous hangover with a trip to Dachau.