This Monday finds us 126 days deep into our EU Austerity Drinking Tour: our post-WSET Advanced attempt to (cheaply) drink our way through Europe’s great vineyards, breweries and distilleries.
Last Monday’s post visited Lyon’s Roman ruins, a Crozes-Hermitage under $10, and big, pretty churches. Today, we wake to omelets and cappuccino in our home stay. The Metro then slingshots us to the Lumiere estate. Apartments have mostly replaced their photo factory, but one vestige remains:
Next door, the Lumiere brothers lived in a splendid, Art Nouveau mansion (with their wives…awkward?).
Appearance: Like most pinot, it looks a pale ruby, purple with a fading clear rim. Aromas: Young, mild hintings of candied raspberry and green tea seem, well, a bit hidden. Palate: it feels dry, snapping with acidity, mellowed by supple medium tannins, medium 12% alcohol, and a surprisingly fullish, round body. Flavors: like the body, extra flavors of raspberry tart, crust and all, a slight clove, bell pepper, finish in an array of minerals that last for a medium plus length.
Duport’s Bugey Tradition 2010 Pinot is unexpectedly round, ripe, yet bright. It recalls Alsatian pinot noir. If the only the aromas were more persuasive and complex. Still, for under 10 EU this is Good (3 of 5).
We sleep until 10:30.
We then find Lyon’s Colosseum, from which one can see their cropped Eiffel Tower, Basilica, and even the Alps beyond:
Somehow, Domaine Pignier, Cellier de Lacuzon grew this 2008 Chardonnay, aged it, and only charges €8.30. But is it junk?
Appearance: Glasses fill gold that shows a slight bubble. Aromas: Young, medium intense roasted nuts, tart golden apple, and honey make for a butter-less chardonnay. Palate: It feels dry, with racy, extra acidity, medium alcohol (13%), and a normal body. Flavors: delicious, golden apple, a typical, not overdone oxidized nutty almond, hazelnut core, lime, chalk, and salt finish make for a lengthy, very good white (4 of 5 points). Honestly delightful, mouthwatering wine.
We crash. Sprawling, grey, urban, modern Lyon was good to us. Tomorrow bags will pack for Beaune in the heart of Burgundy. Check back next Monday for that! Until then, be still my heart.