My resolution for 2019 is to hone this dull, rusted blade that is waywardwine.com That starts with a wine from the fringes: sparkling Serbian wine by Kovacevic (pronounced “Co vah cheh vich”…probably…). Everyone needs a mother in law to smuggle wine from across the world.

Kovacevic Winery began in 1895. Their Brut comes from Vojvodina, in the Srem region, from Fruska Gora vineyards (my poor spellcheck hates me right now).

Srem has a pleasant, moderate, continental climate, hemmed in by Croatia and its Adriatic coast. The grapes blend Chardonnay and something called “Ryan Riesling” (possible relation to Ryan Renolds?). Secondary fermentation happens in bottle like Champagne. That’s all their website says. Let us open it:

APPEARANCE: A clear, light pale straw yellow with an aggressive froth, retained white head, of medium-sized fizz.

AROMA: smell like a like wet warm straw, nutty and bready, with dried chamomile, dried mint, with medium intense candied pear and candied lemon peel.

PALATE: feels crisp, with tame residual sugar (12 grams?), green medium plus acidity, medium alcohol, and edgy sparkle.

FLAVORS: taste grassier and greener. Lemon juice, pith, and verbena lead the show but laced with a Splenda-like sweetness that lasts a medium length.

Kovacevic’s Brut is very good (4 of 5), clean, if a bit aged, overly fizzy and jangly. But for 1680,00 RSD (or $17.00 before import, tax, et cetera), their Brut works as a left-field New Year’s bubbly. Pair it with bries, sushi, white fish and other salty fair.

So, with that cheers and Happy New Year!