In Basque Country in Northern Spain, before Spain makes a right turn and becomes Southern France, sits a DO called Getariako Txakolina. Let us pretend we can pronounce that. The Gulf Stream chills this coastal corner of the Atlantic (much like Bordeaux or Rias Baixas).
Maybe if I say it backwards
This Basque pocket mostly grows one red grape, Hondarrabi beltza (seriously??? Is that some Babylonian code?) Hondarrabi beltza just might be related to Cabernet Franc (possible with Bordeaux uproad).
With summer steaming, I opt for a rosé from producer Rezabal.
APPEARANCE looks a pale clear pink with rapid fine petilance.
AROMAS smell moderately of salt, slate, underripe strawberry, grapefruit.
PALATE off dry, medium plus acidity, medium minus body, mild 11% abv and soda stream level fizz
FLAVORS are delicate but incisive, with citrus rind, strawberry, cream, salt bordering on sardines of medium length. Good (3 of 5).
Rezabal makes a bright, twangy, fruity little fizzer. Think Vinho Verde but pink. What a great way to chill off with summer charring us. It’s not amazing or challenging but interesting, unpronounceable, and delightful enough for a bottle to disappear.
After a Friday of drinking Pinot Noir from dawn until dusk at IPNC, I am not as Springtime fresh as I would prefer. But three hours of the 2016 Master Class on Pinot from Australia, yes, Australia await.
Let the charming accent and talk of dingos eating babies and shrimp on barbies commence, while we tipple a grape about as far from its Burgundian origins as imaginable.
In truth, Australia’s Southerly fringes and hills can grow outstanding Pinot. James Halliday, Queens Order of Australia AM, prolific wine writer, and winemaker of Coldstream Hills introduces Australia’s varied history with Pinot Noir growing.
We ready ourselves for 14 wines. Here are the highlights:
YARA VALLEY
James describes his own Coldstream Hills, Pinot Noir, Farm Vineyard, 2015
Our first wine, and arguably the cleanest and prettiest. It is a youthful purple color, fresh and delicate with bright raspberry juice, tomato, and light all spice. Very good (4 of 5) and will reward with a few years.
Deeper, woody, and tannic is 2013 Mount Mary Vineyard from Yarra Valley. This old vineyard (1971) provides red apple skin, cranberry, twang and savory notes that and lengthy (4 of 5).
Issues of VA, acid adjustment, and reductive over-sulfuring mar a few examples.
MORNINGTON PENINSULA
South of Yarra and Melbourne and Mornington juts out into the sea. Leafy green notes and meatiness overshadow a few. But Paringa Estate 2014 Mornington Peninsula shines. Made by a school teacher gone organic, it shows a rich purple color, pronounced dark cherry aromas backed by bacon and pepper. Bright acidity akin to orange peel tames the plump warm body full of spices. Very good (4 of 5). The cold coastal influence of Mornington is hard to ignore.
West on the other side are the Macedonia Ranges, with organic Bindi Kaye. Their 2014 is clean if a bit quiet aromatically with clove, rose, raspberry, and powdered chalk. The body is light, acid high, and overall a zingy little drink. Very good (4 of 5).
Eastern GIPPSLAND 2014 Bass Phillip Premium is inky, angry, hot, woody, wild and meaty. Big stuff but too disjointed and possibly heat damaged.
Cold coastal GEELONG creates a disappointing wine By Farr 2012 showing its terroir and too much Brett.
TASMANIA, that chilly triangle dangling off South Australia, drums up the most excitement. Although they produce half a percent of Australia’s wine.
Home Hill Estate 2014 wins the group with a floral violet, tobacco, raspberry-laced nose. Acids and tannins create a bright, brambly, but balanced medium bodied Pinot. It is complicated and delicate and very good.
Dawson James’ 2014 Tasmanian Pinot brings more spice, orange, wood, leaf, tart cherry and in-check Brett. It’s dark but twangy, and very good (4 of 5).
ADELAIDE HILLS sits a skip west in South Australia and high in elevation (where it is cooler).
Ashton Hills Reserve 2014 works with bright cherry, eucalyptus, caramel, and a savory, earthen forest quality. It needs time to harmonize but is very good (4 of 5).
SOUTHERN FLEURIEU…leafy and VA…
Somehow, this great panel brought 70 cases from Australia of fresh, interesting Pinot. They have moved away from big brooding reds, and seem to be finding success with mixed whole cluster and whole berry programs. I do not think they have mastered wild ferments on a whole and some chasing extreme climates seem to lead to mixed results in poor years. But in general, Australia’s Pinot scene is interesting, creative, and not just following Burgundy’s shadow.
After IPNC’s Riesling Ceviche tasting I tumble over to their Alfresco Tasting on Linfield’s Dormitory Quad
After repeating myself a few more times (New Zealand? No kidding), I start with Champagne:
My favorite bubbly from last year has returned: Champagne Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne MV a nutty oak-barrel aged wine full of orchard fruits with a fine pearl.
Domaine Marquis D’Angerville’s 2012 Volnat 1er Cru stands out with a near perfect balance of fruit, funk, roundness and acidity.
Burg Ravensburg again shines with their lively, light, delicately earthy 2013 Löchle Pinot Noir:
Even in the shade it is hot. Thankfully, ice makes it rounds to keep the bottles from boiling.
Michigan’s Wyncroft Marland Pinot is passable, albeit quite green and lean.
Lange Estate’s 2013 Three Hills has lovely heft, dark cherry, and denim textured tannins.
Sineann’s Yates-Conwell Vineyard 2013 from Oregon is clean and creamy.
Magnums of 2012 Tolpuddle Vineyard from Tasmania are fruity, caramel laced, and decent but little else.
But by now the grand dinner is about to commence and I clearly need more Pinot Noir.
IPNC 2016 continues with a Pinot panel called Genetics 325: Evolution of House Style. It has near to nothing to do with genetics, but oodles to do with the human influence on wine.
The panel includes Adam Campbell of Elk Cove and Antoine Gouges of Domaine Henri Gouges. But the real elephant in the room is Jim Clendenen. The adorable local and Frenchman have no chance against Jim, of Zaca Mesa and Au Bon Climat. Here’s a bit of his life story:
Jim aside, we taste six wines, two from each maker, highlighting variations in their house styles.
Elk Cove Vineyards’ Mount Richmond 2012 is young, purple, and clear with medium aromas of caramel, raspberry syrup, and spiced nutmeg. Acids are high but in check. The alcohol worries me. But with time this will become interesting. Whole cluster picking add some spice. Very good (4 of 5).
In comparison 2009’s Elk Cove Mount Richmond shows more complexity and mellowness. Rhubarb, cherry skin, and toffee come through. This is very good as well (4 of 5). Yet I don’t care for this caramel thing in their wines.
Next, big Jim. He is certainly more of a figurehead these days, but still has much passion for where wine is going. His 10-15 vineyard blend Isabelle is most certainly their house wine. Terroir is secondary to creating their style. Made for his daughter Isabelle, he even sourced fruit from Oregon for the first vintage.
2013 Au Bon Climat Isabelle looks a bright ruby color. Pronounced but taut aromas of all spice, caramel, dry cedar, and mint lay over ripe cherry. The palate is bright, light, and layered. Very good (4 of 5).
Au Bon Climat’s 2008 Isabelle comes from a frosty, brittle vintage. Nonetheless, it drinks beautifully. For all Jim’s bombast this garnet colored wine flaunts dried mint, anise, worn leather and oodles of raspberry fruit. Their are hints of fading glory but it still has a few powerful years in it. All balance. Outstanding 5 of 5.
Next, the soft spoken, matter of fact Frenchman: Antoine Gouges: 4th generation winemaker from Nuits Saint Georges.
2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains vineyards was his uncle’s last vintage. It is all dark, medium plus ruby colored core. Aromas and Flavors are beefy and ripe, redolent of blackberry syrup, rubber, and cinnamon. The tannins are grippy. It is very good (4 of 5) but entirely due to a house method of heavy punch downs during fermentation.
In contrast, Antoine’s first vintage, 2006, looks, smells, and tastes lighter, brighter, subtler and cleaner. Think cherry skin, anise, black mushroom, but refreshing and lean. You can thank closed concrete tanks. It is very good (4 of 5) and far more flexible a wine.
In sum, House Style was a great panel. They broke from our obsession with terroir. Although I wish they would have mentioned yeast selection, as that is a great tool to tailor a wine with.
WAYWARD WINE 