In memoriam to those who died so we could enjoy Champagne at 9 am on a Monday.
Nothing quite says breakfast and freedom like enjoying a Blanc de Blancs from the oldest Champagne house, Ruinart:
Light, pale gold, with a fine pearl. Delicate aromas smell diaphanous and of acacia honey, almond paste, lemon rind, vanilla powder, sea salt, and the soft white heart of a baguette. Dry, light, sunny and mouthwatering.
Lovely alone or with mild cheese, blanched almonds, apricots, simply prepared eggs, or with your partner on the Oregon coast at Otter Crest Inn.
Back to beginnings this week with one of Napa’s originals: Stags’ Leap Winery (not to be confused with Stag‘s Leap Wine Cellars).
We started our 8th anniversary with Freemark Abbey (read here). Like Stags’ Leap, Freemark shares fame for breaking the French 40 years ago this Spring at the 1976 Judgment of Paris. Since then, both wineries have inflated production, prices, and quality, while selling themselves to biggies (Freemark to KJ, Stags’ to Beringer). But one constant in Napa is ownership change.
The Chase family built the stone Manor House in 1890 and planted vineyards in 1893.
Our visit feels part historic home tour, part winery tour. We enter and get a glass of 2014 Viognier (dry, pale, soft pear, white peach, lemon blossom: very good 4 of 5 $32). Stags’ interior oozes Victorian oak and moodiness. I feel like I forgot my top hat, pipe, and misogyny.
In 1913, widowed Mrs. Frances Grange bought and turned Stags’ into a resort for Hollywood elite. Prohibition halted wine-making but didn’t halt Frances. She sold fruit to other producers and turned Stag’s basement into an underground speakeasy with a trap door.
To absolve patrons’ sins, both lawbreaking and religious, widow Grange built a non-denominational church. Today, church Grange serves as winery:
Through those unassuming wood doors, we cram into a closet brimming with stainless tanks:
By now we swirl 2012 Block 20 Estate Merlot ($65.00 dense strawberry jam, clove, plum, and tea, silky but packed 4 of 5). Past the shiny tanks, we entire the barrel cave. Batman would approve:
While being dripped on we manage to capture a gratuitously adorable couple’s photo:
Back outside we walk the grounds and then visit their 90 acre vineyard. It spans across Stags Leap AVA to the hill ridge (where Pine Ridge hangs out).
Then they break out the big guns: 2012 Twelve Falls Estate Red
What makes Twelve Falls Estate Red cool is that it mimics their plantings: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Petite Sirah, 10% Merlot. ($75.00 Dense blackberry syrup, treacle, mocha, vanilla, inky, complex, long, way too young but outstanding 5 of 5). Tracy loves it but as this panorama shows, Napa makes more than tasting a challenge:
Dumping hurts the heart.
We head back to the castle. Next, Stags’ 2012 “The Leap” Cabernet Sauvignon ($90.00 again, manages to feel massive yet lush, even soft and approachable with dark plum, dense purple fruits, and fine coffee. Outstanding 5 of 5).
All this perfect, dense, balanced, ripe red wine starts to blur for us. Back inside, we try 2012 Ne Cede Malis Estate Petite Sirah ($115.00 all tannic grip, this dry red smells and tastes dusty, of mushrroms, black treacle, cocoa powder, and, oh yeah blackberry fruit leather. It’s outstanding but a beast: 5 of 5).
Procession over, we seat ourselves at a long table with, yes, stags’ horns of glass:
We make moderately casual conversation with our betters across the table (“Really? Your child has two yachts? That must be such a burden.”).
Audentia 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (with, of course, 25% of Stags’ Petite Sirah). At $200, Audentia Cab better impress us. The high, best bits of each vineyard fermented and aged separately for 20 months in 75% new French Oak barrels. Then magician Christophe Paubert blended the best into 247 cases.
If this sounds like Napa’s broken record, you’re not alone. Our week in Napa has unleashed one no expense-spared monster cab after another. Each charges according to demand’s willingness to pay for exclusivity.
Yes, Audentia 2010 is outstanding (5 of 5). But it has to be. The glass fills inky purple, ruby rimmed, and red-stained tears. It smells and tastes stultifyingly complex. Every black berry and dark fruit imaginable fights for attention. Tobacco and mint, cocoa and vanilla powder all frame the fruit. Audentia is serious, too serious: Batman without the camp.
Stags’ Leap is still special. The castle, although tidied up, retains its warm, dark Victorian anxiety. The wines, especially the Viognier and Petite Sirah, stand out, although most seem too clean, too perfect. Regardless, visit Stags’.
One of my restaurants was excited about tasting a sparkling rosé. But it would have to be today. So I grabbed a lonely bottle of Cavicchioli Sparkling Rosé languishing in my office and popped it in the freezer.
After my morning routine of grappling with emails, putting in sample requests, drinking coffee, and general suffering, the hours slip by.
I load the car with wine cases to be delivered, technical sheets for tastings to be thrown away, and my precious note pad. I go back in for my sample bottles to regale accounts with and….
Former Cavicchioli Rose Italy
Behold the icy pinkness: like a unicorn thrown into the drier, or that pink stuff McDonald’s burgers consist of, the Caviccioli was no more than a sticky blob full of hair thin glass shards.
These weekly(ish) recaps of our Napa Valley, eighth anniversary, wine whirlwind tour continue to Mumm. We already enjoyed a light breakfast of Pinot Noir at Etude (read here), but actually hungry now, and already late for lunch reservations, we bomb North. Then something surprises our bleary eyes…
Maybe it was our imaginaion. Onward!
Finally at the Culinary Institute of America, stone masonry edifice looming over us, we go to their Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant, hopeful.
It is winter and empty. Raw stone and wood feel like an ancient church or quarry. Service promptly lands us drinks: a egg-foamy alcohol-free, wine-break for my wife; Grgich Hills Estate Fumé Blanc Napa Valley for me:
Both are lovely, round, yet refreshing. We order entrées. This is what $20 a plate gets us:
Sure, my mushroom gnocchi tastes fine, if simple. However, five pieces of potato pasta do not a lunch entrée make, especially not for $20. We love the CIA because one can eat fantastic, experimental, student-made dishes usually for less than chic restaurants. We miss their Conservatory restaurant (read here) even their café. Disappointed, we inhale a prosciutto sandwich in the car.
We get to Sterling, but the funicular to the hill top winery will take too long. Having dipped a toe in Northern Calistoga, back to Stags’ Leap AVA we go. With a few minutes to spare, we pop into Mumm Napa for some fizz.
I flash my card and they take us past tables of women: knitting, chatting, and luxuriating in bubbles. Tall windows, vineyard views, and scattered antiques make Mumm look like a French bistro: far from Napa cave man Cab of the last week. Our host closes the retro-fitted barn doors behind us and acquires flutes.
Mumm, a grand house based in Reims, France was quick to send Guy Devaux to research Napa just as Napa renewed its international fame in 1976. A touch late to the game, by 1983 Mumm Napa had their first bottling. Although Napa is far warmer than Champagne, the producer has access to cooler Carneros and coastal fruit. In 2002 Mumm sent Champagne maker Ludovic Dervin to take over. He has run things since.
We sit to a flight of pale his fizz. We do enjoy their regular Brut PrestigeNV: crisp, pithy, mineral, consistent. Although metallic and short, this fizz is fully serviceable and a great value: Good (3 of 5).
Blanc de Blancs
Simple, straight-laced, sushi ready, Mumm’s BdB snaps with granny smith apple, medium acidity and a lovely medium minus body: light beer for Champagne drinkers. (3 of 5).
Blanc de Blancs Reserve $42
Mostly Chardonnay (with some Pinot Gris?), Mumm’s BdB Reserve is taut, tart, saline, and super refreshing. Ripe apricot and honey sublimates all its lovely lemon juice and salinity, but this is Napa after all. Very good (4 of 5).
Cuvée M Red
Familiar with sparkling Shiraz? No? Ok, well imagine a soft, sweet, black cherry syrup, inky opaque purple in color, that sparkles. Good (3 of 5). Bring pizza.
Santana Supernatural Brut
Brut? Really? This feels like the sweetest wine of the bunch so far. Tropical notes of pineapple and lychee syrup dominate, vanilla icing follows. With some spicy food, Mumm’s Santana will serve you well. It has a narrow context but is still good (3 of 5).
Brut Reserve Rosé
Sulfur turns us off, as does a touch of bandaid, but as it breathes, darker Pinot fruits of strawberry jam, plum, and nutmeg arise. It feels off dry, with medium acidity, and a viscous, creamy palate. The Reserve Rosé lacks integration. It is not better than the sum of its parts. A good effort (3 of 5), easy to drink, and great value but lacking interest.
2011 Devaux Ranch Rosé
An 100% Pinot Noir affair from Carneros. 2011 was cool and long, leading to higher. Nonetheless, this smells and tastes of strawberry shortcake iced with vanilla and dusted with orange peel. It remains creamy and easy throughout with just enough acidity, ageability, and length to save it. 4 of 5 Very Good.
2008 DVX
Finally a fizz with enough age. DVX comes sourced from 6 vineyards and honors Devaux’s efforts. Aromas seem all seriousness with intense red apple skin, light strawberry, golden apple flanked by blanched almonds and vanilla husk. The dry palate brightens with medium plus yet tame acidity. Intense raspberry flavors, white fig, and cherry skin fold into toasted nuts, vanilla powder and lengthy mouthwatering salinity. Mumm’s DVX 2008 is outstanding (5 of 5) and rivals Champagne in methods, balance, and the like yet retains Californian fruit.
Fizzed and readied for Stags’ Leap, we take one long look out on Mumm’s vineyards.
Mumm provides the perfect antithesis to Napa’s parade of Cabernet club masculinity. They have built a space and experience almost entirely devoted to our better halves. Yes, men dominate production, Santana seems misplaced here, but the fizz is pleasant, inoffensive, and at times (with DVX and elder vintages) worthy of its claims to Champagne.
After an unnecessarily ostentatious day-long tour from Mt Veeder to Howell Mountain with Cardinal (read P1 here read P2 here), we somehow wake up early. Our mouths blackened and livers tested by endless Cabernet, Merlot, and Malbec, we rejoice knowing that today, after four days of monster reds, we try Napa Valley Pinot Noir.
We bomb down to Carneros, Napa’s most southerly AVA.
The hills flatten into green plains. Small lakes, rivers, and marshes punctuate Carneros. Bay fog still clings to the ground. Burgundy, this is not. Heck, our home in Oregon is miles more misrable. But if you plan to grow Pinot Noir in Cali, Napa’s coolest, wettest spot makes sense.
17 acres surround their winery.
These odd white vines remain because the winery still retains its original distillery function as well.
Tony Soter founded Etude in 1982. His goal was to plant Pinot Noir clones matched to microclimates. In 2000, he sold it Beringer (aka Treasury, aka Fosters), who brought in John Priest and Rob Fischer as consultants in 2005.
Our guide Angel sets up their six wine “Study of Pinot Noir”.
We start with Etude’s mainstay “Estate”: a blend of vineyards and clones at their Grace Beniost Ranch, which they have a 90 year lease on. Fruit goes whole cluster for an extended cold maceration.
The APPEARANCE looks a medium intense ruby with a clear rim (thank the gods, no more ink). Proud AROMAS smell of cherry juice, pomegranate, and clove. The dry PALATE, has much longed-for medium plus acidity, medium tannins, medium body, a dusty texture, although the warm 14.4% alcohol bothers us. FLAVORS show up the fruity palate with a touch more pepper, clove, and light bubblegum, the length is medium plus. An approachable, albeit warm and muddled, Pinot Noir meant for drinking over the next five years: very good 4 of 5.
From aptly named vineyard on a fault line: Tremblor, 2013 Etude Pinot Noir Grace Benoist Ranch $75.00 Retail
Tremblor’s APPEARANCE has a medium ruby core with clear purple rim. AROMAS of pepper, light toast, slight earth, red fruits, and cherry skin make for a more serious nosing. The PALATE feels softer, bight but silkier, fuller bodied than the Estate. FLAVORS taste of bright cranberry juice, raspberry. Tremblor is an elegant, round, lengthy Pinot: 5 of 5 outstanding drink now to 2025. I vote it #1 of the tasting.
Next, Etude’s big gun, “Hierloom” vineyard: the oldest planting of Pommard and Dijon clones on rocky soil, 600 fasl, where fog burns off faster.
The APPEARANCE looks a medium intense purple. AROMAS smell stronger, riper, lusher with a floral, grapefruit, dusky, earthen element. The PALATE feels richer, yet tart, with intense, grippy steel hooked tannins. FLAVORS match with earth, grapefruit acidity, red cherry fruit leather. But Heirloom seems tight, closed, but ageable and maybe ready in 5-10 years. It is outstanding 5 of 5 material, but ranks 3rd of the six.
Now for something odd: an Oregon Pinot Noir.
Yes, fruit grown on Yamhill Vista Vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton, Willamette Valley, Oregon gets shipped overnight in refrigerated trucks to Etude for fermentation, barrel aging, and bottling. This seems to be something of a trend with multiple Californians (Siduri, Copper Cane, etc.). Maybe, these Cali winemakers are bored. Maybe, they fear climate change and hedge their bets. Most likely, this is a way to diversify their portfolio and grasp a bit of market share around the Pinot buzz growing around Oregon over the last few decades.
2013 Etude Pinot Noir, Yamhill Vista Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton, Willamette Valley, Oregon $60.00
First up, $60.00 is asking a bit much. This looks only a shade paler than the others. AROMAS and FLAVORS pounce with raspberry, red cherry, straw, folded with tobacco and iron oxide. PALATE: You cannot hide the acidity. This Oregonian emigre has a tart, lean quality the other CA wines lack. Etude’s stamp is still on this, smoothness, fruitiness, and some oak being hallmarks. It is very good 4 of 5, if young and will age well enough over the next decade but beyond an interesting exercise, I’m not sure why.
We shift from Napa and Oregon valleys to California’s coast.
2013 Etude Pinot Noir, Ellenbach Vineyard, Sonoma Coast CA $60.00
Named for the Hell and Back drive, Ellenbach APPEARANCE: A clear, purple core leads to ruby trim and waxy legs. AROMAS smell of Orange peel, juicy strawberry, and fruit salad. The dry PALATE has appreciated highish acidity, medium body, plush velvet tannins, with a light dust. FLAVORS: show serious black cherry skin, tobacco dust, floral perfume, tightened by a tart, white strawberry pith. Ellenbach is outstanding (5 of 5), complex, and shows ample aging potential with that acidity. I rank it #2 of my top 3.
We head south to Santa Barbara with a two vineyard blend.
2013 Etude Pinot Noir, Forte and Fiddlestix Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, CA $60.00
Looks familiar. AROMAS glow with strawberry jam, cola, vanilla, clove, and graham cracker. The PALATE feels soft, overly well rounded, with medium acidity and a dusty textured finish. Very good (4 of 5) but very Santa Barbara, this lacks Sonoma’s brightness and show more alcoholic warmth.
To overgeneralize, Etude’s 2013’s Pinots are graceful, fruit focused, and well manicured. Terroir variations show but seem sublimated by a similar yeast, oak, tank regimen (even when from Oregon). I expected more difference from so many single vineyards. Alcohols push a touch high, but do not destroy the experience. They have decent ageability but will show best in their early years. The Tremblor, Ellenbach, and Heirloom we found most expressive, complicated, and interesting. Maybe the others will strut more with time.
Just as pleasantly wrapped our Pinot Noir break, Angel sends us to the bar, for, yes, more Napa Cab.
The 2010 St Helena Shoenstein Vineyard Cab $110.00 is another ruby ink, loud plump syrup, treacle, cinnamon, fig newton, with extra tannins and alcohol, and meaty, peppery, boisennberry skin flavors that last a long length. Sure, it is outstanding (5 of 5), but because it is the loudest voice in the room.
Etude 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville $110.00 Another monster, opaque ruby, raspberry, blueberry jam, caramel, tobacco, massive iron dust tannins. Outstanding again (5 of 5).
We miss the silken Pinots already. We have to leave. By now we are running late anyway. Check back next Monday as our Napa Valley trip tests out things other than Cab.
Our visit feels part historic home tour, part winery tour. We enter and get a glass of 2014 Viognier (dry, pale, soft pear, white peach, lemon blossom: very good 4 of 5 $32). Stags’ interior oozes Victorian oak and moodiness. I feel like I forgot my top hat, pipe, and misogyny.
In 1913, widowed Mrs. Frances Grange bought and turned Stags’ into a resort for Hollywood elite. Prohibition halted wine-making but didn’t halt Frances. She sold fruit to other producers and turned Stag’s basement into an underground speakeasy with a trap door.
To absolve patrons’ sins, both lawbreaking and religious, widow Grange built a non-denominational church. Today, church Grange serves as winery:
Through those unassuming wood doors, we cram into a closet brimming with stainless tanks:
Back outside we walk the grounds and then visit their 90 acre vineyard. It spans across Stags Leap AVA to the hill ridge (where Pine Ridge hangs out).
Dumping hurts the heart.
Sure, my mushroom gnocchi tastes fine, if simple. However, five pieces of potato pasta do not a lunch entrée make, especially not for $20. We love the CIA because one can eat fantastic, experimental, student-made dishes usually for less than chic restaurants. We miss their Conservatory restaurant (read 
We do enjoy their regular Brut Prestige NV: crisp, pithy, mineral, consistent. Although metallic and short, this fizz is fully serviceable and a great value: Good (3 of 5).
Mumm provides the perfect antithesis to Napa’s parade of Cabernet club masculinity. They have built a space and experience almost entirely devoted to our better halves. Yes, men dominate production, Santana seems misplaced here, but the fizz is pleasant, inoffensive, and at times (with DVX and elder vintages) worthy of its claims to Champagne.
To overgeneralize, Etude’s 2013’s Pinots are graceful, fruit focused, and well manicured. Terroir variations show but seem sublimated by a similar yeast, oak, tank regimen (even when from Oregon). I expected more difference from so many single vineyards. Alcohols push a touch high, but do not destroy the experience. They have decent ageability but will show best in their early years. The Tremblor, Ellenbach, and Heirloom we found most expressive, complicated, and interesting. Maybe the others will strut more with time.
WAYWARD WINE 